 | Dr Roots - Relaxed Hair Care Beauty Tips 1 |  |
 Relaxed Hair CareRelaxed hair can be a double-edged sword: You get the straight, silky hair you crave, but you have to show your heavily processed tresses some extra TLC. Enjoy the versatility of your style and also pamper your tender locks with the tips below.
How Relaxers Works
The shape of your hair as it emerges from the follicle determines its straightness. If you have curly hair, your hair grows in an irregular elliptical or curved shape, which is responsible for the tight coils that define Afro hair texture.
Relaxers work by swelling the hair cuticle, penetrating the cortex and breaking the cohesive bonds that hold hair together. As the bonds break, the curl pattern loosens. To straighten hair you'll need to press and smooth your hair straight with gloved hands while the chemicals are on the hair. Since the bonds that are broken are the "strength" of the hair, a chemical relaxer is by definition damaging. So why use it? Unlike other methods of hair straightening, hair relaxers will make a permanent change; for this reason relaxers are commonly referred to as "perms."
| Relaxers for Black Hair
The most common relaxers targeted for Black hair come in two distinct formulations:
Sodium hydroxide relaxer: The strongest formulation contains sodium hydroxide, a powerful chemical known as an alkaline caustic. The percentage of sodium hydroxide will vary depending on the strength of the relaxing solution (they come in mild to strong, depending on the texture of the hair to be treated). As with all alkalies, the higher the pH levels, the stronger the chemical. Hair relaxers generally have pHs ranging from 10 to 14. The higher the pH, the faster your hair will straighten.
Guanidine hydroxide relaxer: These relaxers are commonly known as a "no lye" relaxer - a term which refers to the absence of sodium hydroxide in the formulation. While guanidine essentially works the same way, it takes two steps to create the proper formulation. The no-lye perm works by combining calcium hydroxide (an alkali created from lime and water) with an "activator" solution of guanidine carbonate - another alkali. The result is a chemical cocktail thought to be slightly less damaging than a traditional sodium hydroxide relaxer with lower pH levels.
See our list of recommended products for relaxing Black hair at home
So, to lye or not to lye? Some believe the milder formulas don't work as quickly or as effectively. Others prefer no-lye formulas because their scalp can't take the burning of the lye. (Relaxers are never supposed to touch the scalp but always do, and the longer it's on, the more chance for irritation; those with lye tend to burn more.) When in doubt, check with your stylist.
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